140 replies to this topic

[Sideways~S14]

Well abandoned the other chassis im onto my 4th s14 its remarkable. its normally s13s you hear that about but i plan on keeping this one for good picked it up for 1800$ needs some work but its doable and has plates and shit haha Onto Pics

Takin your approach rob this seems like a great way of keeping track of everything.

Current Specs as of 11/18/2011

Car:
1995 Nissan 240sx SE

Car name: No name yet.

Engine, Transmission & Drive Train:
Black Top S13 SR20DET
Aftermarket 6 Puck Clutch Not sure of Brand
S14 T28 Turbo
Circuit Sport Stainless Steel Turbo Lines
CXRacing FMIC With some Jank Piping
Greddy Type S Bov
3inch Turbo Back
Manual Boost Controller Set at 10psi
Oem Nissan Thermostat
Koyo N-Flow Radiator
Samco Radiator Hoses
HKS Mushroom Air Filter
Rewelded Megan Equal Length Tubular
Dual Altima Fans Hardwired To A/C to Come On 100% when Ignition Is On
Greddy Turbo Timer
Stealth Custom Fab Welded Diff
Kazama Solid Engine Mounts
Pro Peak Performance Solid Transmission Mount
SPL Solid Diff Bushings
Cruise control removed
Odyssey PC680 battery
Walbro 255LPH HP fuel pump


Exterior:
1996 USDM Zenki S14 Grill
SE Lip
OEM Mud Flaps
Kouki Tail Lights
Roof Wing
Kouki Wing

Interior:
Swapped Black Face Gauge Cluster
Momo Hub
Momo Mod 08 Steering Wheel
NRG Thin QR
300mm Broadway Mirror
Cusco Drift Button
F1 Spec Bucket Seat
Buddy Club Low rails

Brakes:
Removed Brake Dust Shields
Q45 Brakes.

Suspension & Steering:
SilkRoad Rm-8 Coilovers
SPL Tension Rods
Stealth Custom Fab Front Strut Tower Bar
Energy Suspension Steering Rack Bushings
Stealth Custom Fab Fender Braces

Wheels and Tires:
Rota Grids 17x9 +25
Front Tires- Unknown
Rear Tires- same unknown lol

Alignment Specs:
Front:Unknown

Rear:Unknown


Fluids:
Motor:Mobil1 10w-40
Tranny:Redline MT90
Power Steering:Royal Purple
Coolant:Redline Water Wetter
Differential: Valvoline 80w 90





You can see the damage in this pic




Inside of it






Some kinda dual piston brakes?

[mestizo]

LOL all I have to say is don't mess this one up. But it was a decent find for a good price!

[Jonnie Fraz]

Oh good gravy...another one!

Well at least you can say you only destroyed one chassis...lol.

Looks like a good find for the price!

[Sideways~S14]

Oh good gravy...another one!

Well at least you can say you only destroyed one chassis...lol.

Looks like a good find for the price!

Yea i think its cool i found out the right rear tire is at 60psi :X But Cough Cough I think this car needs some fender braces cough cough..................................................cough

But Only if you dont mind johnny haha i got all your other braces still and my buddy is sittin next to me and wanted to see if he oculd get any info on that price for all the braces. Oh and I Have hopes of not messing this one up Maybe molesting it though hahaha

[Sideways~S14]

Well time for a update I guess Next update will involve chirping around corners haha

Heres just a random pic my friend amanda took



Better pic of the brakes


Put my s drives on


switched the shocks so i can be kinda low lol dont have a pic with em on


took the wing off


got bored and threw this on hahahahah


found this


and found this


Hella road salt


This spot of rust I need to get fixed duno how yet though


threw my drift button on and took the steering wheel cover off




pulled my 350z seats out


s14 seats in


Oh and pressure washed the bay and put this big black thing on my shock towers

[mestizo]

That broken stud is easliy fixed, just go to kragen and get the stud, u just hammer the old one out and then pop it back in. The rust on the bottom looks like surface rust, just hit it with a wire brush to remove the rust and then spray it with rubberised under coat.

[Sideways~S14]

Sadly i took a better look at the rust its not just the surface but most of it is the surface theres one spot that its eating through. Who could fix that? its a very small spot.

[mestizo]

That's the problem with cars that are from a state that gets a lot of snow. Best way to fix it is to take a wire wheel in a drill or dremel and grind away all the rust you can find, then anything that is left behind you will need to use naval jelly to stop and neutralize the remaining rust. Any holes will need to be patched by either welding in a patch, 3m panel bonding a patch or fiberglassing a patch.

[Sideways~S14]

That's the problem with cars that are from a state that gets a lot of snow. Best way to fix it is to take a wire wheel in a drill or dremel and grind away all the rust you can find, then anything that is left behind you will need to use naval jelly to stop and neutralize the remaining rust. Any holes will need to be patched by either welding in a patch, 3m panel bonding a patch or fiberglassing a patch.

Sickness seems like something im not equiped with tools wise maybe i can get my dad to help with this since he used to do this kinda shit since he lived in illinois lol either way its not a big spot so should be do able ill probably have to be in contact with john though cause id prefer to weld in a patch. but my dad nor me have a welder haha either way im sure Ill get it fixed before the plague spreads

[Sideways~S14]

Ok so i did the self diagnostics on the ecu for codes and this is what i got

33 Oxygen sensor or circuit (300ZX left side) - all other models EGR malfunction. Dont see how this would make the motor misfire So Rob any thoughts on this?

Then also I put a welded in and of course theres pics haha This is the quietest a welded diff has been in any of my cars too it feels like theres no welded i was trippin balls when i drove it around the block amazed with its quietness

Pulled the welded out of the black car


Then pulled the exhaust off while i was at it haha


Then had to put pulling the diff out of my orange machine until i picked up this little nifty tool from john


Disconnected driveshaft


Then this is where the diff landed the concrete got ffed up scary as hell laying next to it when it does this :X


Then with fresh diff fluid got the diff lined up on the jack


Got the two studs through the sub frame and the axles popped in


Then threaded the two bolts into the sub frame and put in the other half of the solid bushings in they werent tight at this point since you can see the gap inbetween the subrame and diff bushing


Now there Tight that thing hanging is where the abs used to plug into the old diff i cut it cause im a teenager lol Honesty points maybe? hahaha


Bolted up the drive shaft


Then axles bolted up and everything torqued down. Ready to rock and roll and most importantly slide

[mestizo]

33 on a 1995 240sx is the front O2 sensor so it's the one in the engine bay on the exhaust manifold. This is the easier to get to and cheaper of the two O2 sensors. If it's a single wire O2 which most are it will be right around $30 to get a new one from Kragen. As far as it misfiring I don't know, but are you sure that 33 is the only code it was showing?

[Sideways~S14]

Yup 33 was the only code I got. I cleared it and drove it around and got the check engine light again. Ill prolly pull codes later again though just to make sure. Along with Im gonna go through the engine harness make sure everything is plugged in, nothing loose, etc check grounds all that shit. Ive already checked all fuses. Also Im thinking maybe maf? But i think it would show a code for that cause it revs fine in neutral witch i beleive is a sign of the maf going bad or being bad?

[mestizo]

So the car has a misfire? It didn't feel like that to me when I drove it, but the tranny felt all whacked out. Check the plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor and make sure there are no vacuum leaks, also check the tranny fluid level.

[Sideways~S14]

yea i popped it into neutral when it was doin that lurching shit and it was the rpms that kept jumping around and when i floored it it was gutless and was stuttering

[Sideways~S14]

Ok so I checked the harness. Harness plugs etc. I can't check the spark plugs cause well I don't have a extension. Cap and rotor is next on the check list. I Checked the codes again and got code 33 again. Well in my testing though I drove to the park like 1/8 mile away and took this pic

[mestizo]

Well if your getting code 33 again then either do the troubleshooting in the fsm or just go buy an O2 and replace it. Did you check the grounds on the back of the head? Those grounds might have something to do with the O2 throwing a code, either that or signal wire is broken somewhere.

[Sideways~S14]

Actually I did check the grounds on the back of the head. I think I have another o2 laying around I think Ill try it see if that gets rid of the code cause who knows it might be good but just out of curiousity how does the signal wire get broken?

[mestizo]

lol how does any wire get broken? Who knows... but those are the only things it can be, bad O2, bad signal wire or bad ground. Unless the ECU is bad but I doubt that.

[Sideways~S14]

Well with no money I haven't done anything really and my jack is at my friends house so all I really could do was throw the turbo timer in. I kno it serves no purpose but I like the voltage reading and warnings lol. But this time putting it in this car I did it cleanly. Hooked all the wires up except for the speed. Hid the harness hid the ground wires along with the one for the e brake. So all you can see is the timer.

No Ground wires to be seen :X


No harness either :X


All thats seen is the timer. Weird

[kcvpr]

Well with no money I haven't done anything really and my jack is at my friends house so all I really could do was throw the turbo timer in. I kno it serves no purpose but I like the voltage reading and warnings lol. But this time putting it in this car I did it cleanly. Hooked all the wires up except for the speed. Hid the harness hid the ground wires along with the one for the e brake. So all you can see is the timer.

Did you fix the third brake light thing yet?