12 replies to this topic

[kcvpr]

So I have had my S13 for less than a month and my knock sensor has gone bad...

I been doing some research, and I have found there are two things that could be wrong, and two ways to replace it.

#1 the sensor it's self could be bad

#2 the wiring to the sensor could be bad

which one is more likely?


And I have also found that you can either take the intake manifold off the motor to get the sensor, or you can move around some fuel lines and take out the oil filter and a bracket near by it.

Which method would you guys recommend?

Thanks for the help!

[mestizo]

LOL yea my knock sensor was bad too on my KA and I did it without taking manifold off... NOT FUN AT ALL! Later on I had to take my manifold off to replace all the leaking ass heater hoses and this was equally not fun. So both ways suck, but if you get an FSM you can trouble shoot the wiring and see if that is what is wrong.

[kcvpr]

LOL yea my knock sensor was bad too on my KA and I did it without taking manifold off... NOT FUN AT ALL! Later on I had to take my manifold off to replace all the leaking ass heater hoses and this was equally not fun. So both ways suck, but if you get an FSM you can trouble shoot the wiring and see if that is what is wrong.

The part I didn't mention though, is that, I fail epically at voltage related stuff/ and trouble shooting electrical. like all the ohm and resistance stuff, I wouldn't have a clue how to check that.

Does the knock sensor connect directly to the ECU? Like if I wanted to just cut the original wiring instead of trying to fix it, and just run wires along side the old ones?

But at least its not as bad as the VW golf I drove for a while, on it you actually have to pull the intake manifold just to change the damn spark plugs.

Edit: I found that the knock sensor is pin 27 on the ecu..... So if I yank that wire and run a new one straight from the sensor, along with a new ground it should work? would it matter what I connect the ground to?

[Jonnie Fraz]

The part I didn't mention though, is that, I fail epically at voltage related stuff/ and trouble shooting electrical. like all the ohm and resistance stuff, I wouldn't have a clue how to check that.

Does the knock sensor connect directly to the ECU? Like if I wanted to just cut the original wiring instead of trying to fix it, and just run wires along side the old ones?

But at least its not as bad as the VW golf I drove for a while, on it you actually have to pull the intake manifold just to change the damn spark plugs.

Edit: I found that the knock sensor is pin 27 on the ecu..... So if I yank that wire and run a new one straight from the sensor, along with a new ground it should work? would it matter what I connect the ground to?

Ok from what I have read the sensor itself rarely goes bad. Several other things besides wiring can cause the 34 code. O2 sensor, bad gas, ground problems. I think you are headding in the right direction by checking wireing first. In trouble shooting I find doing the cheep stuff first helps keep cost down.

[mestizo]

You can run a wire by itself to the knock sensor it's only one wire altho the FSM shows 2 wires, one of them is just a grounded shield wire and never makes it to the Knock Sensor. Then all you need to do is just run a bolt thru the middle of the knock sensor and ground it to the chassis.

[kcvpr]

Ok from what I have read the sensor itself rarely goes bad. Several other things besides wiring can cause the 34 code. O2 sensor, bad gas, ground problems. I think you are headding in the right direction by checking wireing first. In trouble shooting I find doing the cheep stuff first helps keep cost down.

Ok, so as far as gas goes, I always get the cheap shit... And acording to the previous owner's records, he had this replaced

2/18/2008 - $556
#1 Replaced MAF Sensor
#2 Replaced PVC Hose & EGR transducer

and then this

11/17/2008 - $611
#1 Pass smog
#2 Replace O2 Sensor
#3 Replace dist cap & rotor
#4 Replace ignition wire & spark plugs

Is there more than one O2 sensor?

and recently I replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, and did an oil change. All that made a huge difference along with the eBay 3" catback. When I was under there last to put the cat back on, I noticed a wire flopping around, and I thought nothing of it, as it was probably a ground wire by the looks of it. You think that might be my problem from the start? After all this everything has been going down hill at a 90* angle.

Either way though, I have a new knock sensor on the way courtesy of eBay, so I will know more soon.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions thus far.

[mestizo]

On the S13's there was only 1 O2 sensor and its a single wire sensor. Also make sure that all your grounds are hooked up and that they are clean connection.

[kcvpr]

On the S13's there was only 1 O2 sensor and its a single wire sensor. Also make sure that all your grounds are hooked up and that they are clean connection.

Ok ill do that tonight and report back after school.

[kcvpr]

Ok ill do that tonight and report back after school.

Well I just got around to pulling the sensor, and honestly its was very easy.

When I got it out, I looked a the sensor, and the whole fuckin casing had come off and someone had put black rtv around it or something. and the harness was all fucked up too.

So I guess I found the problem LOL!

[mestizo]

Dam man it was a PITA for me to do I am glad it was easy for u tho lol.

[kcvpr]

Dam man it was a PITA for me to do I am glad it was easy for u tho lol.

The check engine light came back on today. So I check the codes, from what I can decipher, I have error code 24 Park/Neutral switch malfunctioning , 32 EGR malfunction (California models) , and 34 again.


Any Ideas?


If I cant figure this out, I'll probably have to by-pass it.... If it comes to that, do you guys know how that works?

[Sideways~S14]

Run it till it blows!

[mestizo]

From what I have read they say that 34 will come on with 32. Those are the 2 codes that I could not get rid of on my KA.