Has anybody heard of this mod, or done this mod? Is it safe, worth it... blah blah blah
http://garage.projec...utchdamper.html
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Removing Clutch damper????
Started by kcvpr, May 06 2009 09:44 PM
#1
Posted 06 May 2009 - 09:44 PM
#2
Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:15 PM
Do it, it actually tells you to remove it in a TSB from Nissan. I don't have one on my car and it's just fine, but I know of several people who still have the box and have issue's with bleeding the clutch line. Just do exactly what that guide tells you, remove the damper box, gently bend the line 180 degrees to the bracket and then reconnect the soft line.
#3
Posted 07 May 2009 - 12:03 AM
#4
Posted 07 May 2009 - 02:00 PM
Do it!!! When I did my manual swap I was gonna put it in...I tried to get the clutch to bleed for hours with no luck. Took it off 5 min to bleed.
#5
Posted 07 May 2009 - 11:55 PM
QUOTE (Jonnie Fraz @ May 7 2009, 03:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Do it!!! When I did my manual swap I was gonna put it in...I tried to get the clutch to bleed for hours with no luck. Took it off 5 min to bleed.
Well, today Doug, Joe, and me swapped motors and the day before I did a bunch of other stuff. Sub-frame spacers, steel braided brake/clutch lines. But when we went to bleed the line the the clutch, it wouldn't get any better feeling than pure "doo doo butter". As well as the motor wouldn't run correctly or idle, were figuring this is because of vacuum leak. Tested via Brake cleaner sprayed around vacuum lines.
#6
Posted 08 May 2009 - 12:08 PM
A lil better discription of whats up now is the motor wont idle and if i hold it at half throttle and just stay there it mis fires but if i give it 100% throttle it revs fine. My guess as to the clutch problem is the actually pressure plate. Drive it around see how the clutch grabs if it doesnt grab new clutch time if it does grab ok then just rock it. We should of swapped clutches out.
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