what and Idiot...that dude need a life and a clue lol

I would do bad bad things to that girl ~

Pretty sick supra!!!

lol yeah on both parts...hahaha

OK so I am starting or going to start a motor build for my S14...here are some parts I am looking for...let me know what you got and lets make a deal...

I need the following for now:

RB25 pistons (86mm with 8.5 to 1 compression) Stock or aftermarket

RB25 connecting rods

RB25 Crankshaft

RB25 Head (dont care if its just the head with no cams or valves ect) Ill take it

Katoys (i think thats how you spell it, I cant remember) they are a dime a dozen there....literally LMAO...I know cause I was there a couple times and know people who made some mistakes lol

Like the title says I have a Bride MO bottom mount seat rail that I wanna sell. I Have decided I sit to high for my liking in my seat and wanna sit lower. So I will be buying a side mount rail.

The rail is obviously already assembled and ready for use...



This seat rail is 6 months old and is in great condition. Its still in the car but will take it out once sold. I am asking $175. I paid more than that from FR Sport shipped.

((EDIT)) This rail is for a 240/silvia...its in my S14

did you hear that??? it sounded like Marios one up!!! lol

here you go...enjoy

Yeah it just sucks we dont have more venues to choose from up here so it wouldnt be so damn expensive!!!

...we cant get a lil lot much like this one and do as they do???



I am sure we could have some fun!!!

yeah we need to move LMAO

the video isnt bad but forward to 4:45...

http://www.youtube.c...feature=channel

lol...I just thought you might like the fact that your girl is street racing...just too bad it was in a pile of shit Mercedes...lol

Wow that looks like a lot of work...and way too much thinking to build something like that. I think if someone needs an IRS they need to step up to an S-Chassis...less work less hassle and it comes with it.

Love the Mario reference lmao

Ok so I decided since I didn’t see much of any “how to’s” or “DIY” guides on replacing the stock rear differential bushings with Solid Aluminum bushings I wanted to do my own write up. Also I know many people would rather install these while the sub-fame is still in the car as I did. So here is how I did it.

***A lil tip I got from Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) stick your solid bushings in the freezer the night before at least to get them nice n cold so they shrink a bit and fit in easier.

***also wanna point out that there are not as many pics as I would like to have put in here, cause I was doing this alone and couldn’t just drop everything to take pic. So I appologize

First off I ordered up a set of SPL Pro Suspension Solid Differential Bushings off their website.


Once they came in and I had the free time I jacked the rear off the car off the ground and put it on a set of jack stands.

Here is what we are looking at replacing:



I preceded by unbolting the driveshaft from the diff, then the 6 bolts per side off the axles. I also made sure I unbolted one side of the rear sway bar.





(side note***) Depending on where your exhaust is located you might need to unbolt it from the rear and let it hag as well. It might be in the way of you unbolting and dropping the diff.

After removing everything attached to the diff I unbolted the two rear nuts from the diff located here:



Once they were out I put a jack under the diff to help support it, then took out the front two bolts of the diff holding it to the chassis.

Once everything was free and clear I lowered the diff using the jack and wobbling it back and forth to get the diff free from the rear of the sub-frame.

Once it was free and lowered to the ground I pulled it out from underneath the car.



Once the Diff was out I could then get complete access to the rear bushings that needed to be replaced.

A pic from the diff side:



A pic from the rear of the car:



Now begins the fun part!!!

After a few hours and consulting a few people I found the fastest and easiest way to remove these bushings.
They have a metal center that most know, with a lil rubber wrapped around that with a metal collar around the outside.

The trick is, is to cut that outside collar so you can tap the bushing out. Fastest way I found was to take a drill with a drill bit about the size diameter of the rubber and drill out the rubber at the bottom of the bushing located here:



As you can see I did here:



After I drilled out enough rubber to stick a saws-all blade in the hallowed out area I made I slid a saw blade in there with a saws-all and cut to one side of the outer collar.

I cut going in one direction like so:



You wanna make sure you keep the blade flat and you wanna just cut that collar so take your time and check often on your progress.

Then after I cut to one side I flipped the blade around and cut to the other side like so:



Once I felt like I cut through both sides I used a hammer and a punch, gave it a few whacks and the bushing popped right out. Took less than five minutes per bushing. Now originally I tried some other options that just were not working at all and it took me forever it seemed like and I got no where. But once I attacked them with the saws-all they way I just described it seriously took bout 5 minutes per bushing.

Now I have both bushings out:



***A lil tip I got from Jonnie Fraz (Stealth Custom Fab) stick your solid bushings in the freezer the night before at least to get them nice n cold so they shrink a bit and fit in easier.

I got the lil tip a little late but no worries, I stuck the bushings in a bag of ice for about an hour or so:



Once the bushings where removed, the holes the bushings came from were properly cleaned and free of any burrs and the new ones where nice n cold I got a type of press from Rob (Mestizo) that consist of two steel type of washers and a long bolt and a nut. We used this device many times to press in bushings on the lower control arms and such.

I found that inserting and pressing these bushings in from the rear of the car to the front works much easier. As shown:


Now both bushings are pressed in.





Once they were pressed in I put the front bushings on the front of the diff, there were easy to do just pressed them in with my hand.



Then I preceded to install the diff back into its rightful place in the chassis:





Once I got the diff back into the car I attached the rear axles, the driveshaft, rear sway and exhaust back where it belongs and double checked everything was nice and tight.

Here is some pics of a comparison of the old and the new:

I did them in photobucket lol I was lazy

yeah but you know you would drift it too if you were in it!!!

HAHAHA that shit is funny!!!

Thats sick!!!!

Yes I do...they just need a good cleaning...I will let them go cheap

Yeah those coils look pretty sick...cant wait to hear how well they work. Please let us all know.

If you dont mind me asking...where did you get them from?

I think those wheels are gonna look good as well...any ideas on tire size yet?

Welcome to the board. This is a great place to find answers like they said. There are some knowledgeable people on this sight. Just ask and I am sure someone will chime in and give you good advice.

I gotta say that is a beast of a brace...I dunno if you will need all that for an S chassis. I suggest some Stealth Custom Fab bracing. (Front Strut Bar, Fender Braces, Tension Rod Brace and Rear Strut bar) Trust me they work great. With each brace you will notice a difference in the chassis itself. And its all cheaper than name brand stuff and the construction is way way way better too. More bang for your buck!!!

I suggest looking at Mestizos thread for ideas and such. It truly is a great thread.

Well it was a nice day and I wanted to do something to my car...here is what I did:

Well I purchased a full ES bushing kit a long time ago when I bought the car. Little by little I am getting them all installed. Today I decided to replace the rear lower control arm bushings.

First off I found after awhile the best solution was to just disconect all the arms and the axel nut and pull the arm and upright out as one whole peice without undoing the ball joint.

After removing the arm/uprightI proceeded to use a Mapp gas torch and torch out the old bushings.



After the center metal sleeve fell out I scrapped all the hot melted rubber from the outer sleeve. Then used a small hack saw to cut the outer sleeve to aid in the removal of the sleeve. Trying to be careful not to cut all the way through and into the control arm itself.



After I made a slit in the sleeve I used a chisle and hammer to knock out the sleeve. Once I removed all the sleeves from the control arm I used a file to clean out any burrs so that there wont be any damage to the new bushings.

Here you will see the new ES bushings for the control arms:



I used the supplied ES bushing lube and lubed them up. Rob aided me in the pressing of the bushings. It was a huge pain in the ass but we got them all pressed in using several devices.



Here is some pics of the bushings all pressed in and ready to go on the car:




Yes this process was a huge pain in the ass and I hope to never do it again. But it was worth it I know.

Just driving the car on the street and down the road I could already tell a difference in the rear of the car. Its amazing how much of a difference they made. But I am still feeling there is something loose in the rear.


Next thing to do is the front lower control arms!!!